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Businessmen and Black Wages

I happened upon my first Argentine protest today, quite accidentally, walking from the Plaza de Mayo (home of the President's quarters, Casa Rosada, and Evita's famed balcony).  I heard the heavy sound of drum beats, shaking the street beneath my feet, and just had to investigate.  But I wouldn't exactly call it a riot - in fact, the protest for human rights was quite peaceful.  It was more of a musical performance than anything else.  The working class activists gathered in front of the Ministry of Human Rights building, protesting the "black wages" paid under the table.  Later, northwest of downtown in the Barrio Once, I spotted another protest, complete with cerimonious gunshots.  These "anzianos", older citizens, were petioning for higher pensions.

In broken Spanglish, I asked the taxi driver about the protests, and he responded that they are a Wednesday ritual.  I'll have to do a bit of research, but if Argentina is anything like Italy, the protestors must obtain a permit to protest and are told which streets and what time is acceptable.  However, the general feeling I get from the people I've spoken to here is overall content with the government, led by President Nestor Kirchner.

This is not to say I ever felt unsafe watching the protests, and for the most part have felt very comfortable walking the city.  Though a tremendous part of the Argentine population (a staggering 40%) live below the poverty line, I have yet to see concentrete examples of this way of life.  In the city, business men in tailored suits bustle down the streets, women adorned in leather and mink stoles stroll along beside them, many showing signs of plastic surgery.  Cell phones abound, as in the US, and many sport iPod earpieces.  The people look healthy (as in not obese, like so many Americans), well-groomed, very European.  Not the picture of a Third World country.

The poor are present, of course, but no more so than the beggars that line the New York City streets, or the Italian gypsies.  There is a distict dichotomy between rich and poor, to be sure, but I don't find it to be much more pronounced than other cities of its magnitude.  Buenos Aires reminds me of a mix between NYC, Rome and Paris, with a Latin flair.  You don't have to go out of your way to come upon a McDonalds or Burger King, and most music and many magazines and even television shows are in English.  The cars are small, virtually no SUV's or trucks, and mostly brands like Fiat, Peugot and VW.  The majority are not brand new models, but they're not exactly ancient either.  Surprisingly, I have spotted multiple dealerships and city showrooms for Ford, Chrysler and Toyota, and new models of these types of cars are not uncommon on the streets, if you can see past the plethora of taxis.  By the way, a taxi ride across town costs about 6 pesos, or less than US$3 - the same ride in NYC would easily cost upwards of US$20.

My ride to Pilar and Tigre, about 45 km north of Buenos Aires, tomorrow may demonstrate more of the poverty here in Argentina.  My contact here is taking me on a tour of several construction projects just outside the city, and will show me the real estate climate of the city and surrounding areas firsthand.  Stay tuned for more about this trip - as well where I learned NOT to invest in Argentina - soon.

Ciao!

Erin

P.S.  I've gotten several subscriber emails requesting that I bring home some Argentine steak to share!  Here's the best I can do!

June 22, 2005 in Erin Beale | Permalink